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12-step guide to reveal China's mysteries


lisa51766

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1. HAINAN ISLAND

China’s biggest island is about 300 miles (500km) southwest of Hong Kong, and it has the country’s best beaches. Until a couple of years ago, few people visited. Then the Sheraton opened in Sanya, the most popular resort, on the southern tip of the island . . . and it became the official host hotel of the annual Miss World contest.

The result has been a huge profile boost — lots of media coverage of smiling beauty queens — and big hotel chains: Marriott (already open), Hilton, Crowne Plaza and Shangri-La are moving in. The “China’s Hawaii” nickname came because it is on the same latitude as the real Hawaii — and because Chinese and South Korean visitors have a penchant for wearing garish Hawaiian shirts. There are interesting traditional hill villages, local markets and hot springs to explore. But don’t take your surfboard — the waves are tiny. Kuoni, Britain’s biggest long-haul operator, is offering breaks from next year.

2. GUANYIN — ONE OF THE WORLD’S TALLEST STATUES

The Guanyin (Buddhist Goddess of Mercy) statue was unveiled in April, 40 miles outside Sanya on Hainan — becoming one of the world’s tallest statues at 108m (a couple of metres higher than the Statue of Liberty). What’s extraordinary is not just that hardly anyone knows about it, but that Guanyin is set in the grounds of what can only be described as a giant Buddhist theme park.

Market stalls sell T-shirts, cans of Coca-Cola, pretzels, straw hats, and mugs with digital pictures of the tourists who buy them burnt on. Then electric buggies, with plastic elephant-head bonnets, take you on a tour of beautiful grounds, past temples, picnic area, golden Buddha gardens and vegetarian restaurants to a viewing platform, where there’s the smell of incense and the sound of temple gongs. You can take another buggy and walk out to the foot of the statue. It’s incredibly other-worldly — and a whole lot of fun.

3. TAI CHI

Almost all top-class hotels now offer t’ai chi lessons, led by t’ai chi masters in the morning. Many lessons are pitched at domestic tourists and are at the crack of dawn, at around 6.30am, although you can arrange later times.

Participants are put through a series of moves such as “Parting the Horse’s Mane”, the “Golden c*** Stand”, “Reeling Fore Arming” and “Pulling the Peacock’s Tail in the Arm” — most of which involve balancing on one leg and thrusting arms forward in slow-motion karate chops. It’s a refreshing way to start the day, and great for jet lag. Most lessons last about 20-30 minutes, and there is no shame in wobbling about a bit. Ask at reception when you arrive to see if your hotel offers t’ai chi. It’s usually free.

4. THE COMMUNE

An hour and a half’s drive north of Beijing, the Commune by the Great Wall hotel opened in Shuiguan in 2002, designed by 12 prominent Asian architects. It has 11 large, stylish villas which start at £490 a night, tucked away on a hillside by the Great Wall. Staff dress in black uniforms with red stars, and it all feels very James Bond.

But the Kempinski group was brought in last month to introduce slicker service and oversee the construction of 37 new villas, with rooms from £140, opening next October.

5. TAKE ME TO SHANGRI-LA — ALL 19 OF THEM . . .

The latest Shangri-La hotel was unveiled last month in Shanghai — the Pudong Shangri-La — bringing the five-star chain’s stable of Chinese properties to 19, with another 15 planned by the end of 2008. The Shanghai hotel has undergone a major refurbishment and 375-room extension, making it the largest luxury hotel in China, with just under 1,000 rooms.

There are now 12 designer restaurants, a glass-encased swimming pool, and the “Jade on 36 Bar”, one of Shanghai’s funkiest — designed to look like a giant jade jewel box with a fuchsia pink interior. Rooms start at about £130 a night.

6. MARKET TRADING

The European Union and China have overcome their “bra wars” stand-off on EU clothing import quotas — but how do you get the best price at a market in China? It’s an acquired skill, but guides in Beijing and Shanghai suggest you take the stallholder’s starting price . . . and quarter it.

Clothes markets are often now in department stores spread over several floors. The trick, say guides, is never to show too much interest and always to walk away when you’re unhappy with an offer. The result (and it worked for me) is to have attendants rush after you exclaiming “Come back sir!”, offering a better price. It can be hectic but you can always relax with a cheap foot massage: most markets offer this service.

7. LOUNGE IN LUXURY

The latest spa-hotel (http://english.51766.com)offering is the Banyan Tree Ringha, tucked away in a Tibetan valley amid snow-capped mountains in the Yunnan region, which opened last month. It is the first Banyan Tree in China, part of the chain based in Singapore, with a second planned in nearby Lijiang, due to open in spring.

The Ringha property is at 3,600m (10,000ft) and its architecture reflects Tibetan culture — lots of woodcarvings, open fireplaces, balconies and pine pillars in “Tibetan farmhouse style”. Rooms are from £220 a night. The Banyan Tree Spa offers treatments based on “the ancient Chinese five elements philosophy”.

8. VROOM VROOM FOR A SHANGHAI SURPRISE

The second Chinese Grand Prix is being held in Shanghai tomorrow, attracting a hardy band of Formula One devotees. Gary Howell, managing director of Motor Racing International, which organises travel and ticket packages for motor races around the world, says that the Chinese crowd gets “incredibly excited” during the 56-lap contest: “Most of the people who go are wealthy Chinese — there seem to be a lot of them in Shanghai. I found it an incredibly cosmopolitan city.”

9. NEW HOTEL OF MODERN ART, GUILIN

The Hotel of Modern Art opened in the Guilin region of China earlier this year. Abstract modern sculptures by artists from 47 countries are strewn about the 1,500 acres of grounds, photographs and bright paintings are dotted about the minimalist-looking interior. There is a swimming pool, a gym, and big airy restaurant.

10. OLYMPICS 2008

It may seem an age away, but people are already planning trips to the 2008 Games. No company has yet to be made an official ticket seller by the British Olympic Association although Sportsworld, which has had this role for the past three Olympics, will be a strong contender. It is taking a provisional list of names by phone to contact later with details of ticket prices and packages. “People like to be ahead of the game,” said Jeremy Goodwin of Sportsworld. “The interest is already huge. Beijing is better prepared than Athens was at this stage of the build-up.”

11. PEDAL THE GREAT WALL

Explore Worldwide has new cycling tours using China’s most common form of transport: the bicycle. The 15-day holidays take in Beijing, and you also cycle alongside the Great Wall. Then there is a flight to Guilin for spectacular mountain scenery and paddyfield countryside. The trip, rated “easy to moderate”, involves 18 miles (25km) of cycling each day on average. Accommodation is in hotels, guesthouses and villages — prices start at £1,733pp.

12. TAKE TO THE COUNTRYSIDE

Nine Villages Valley, near Chengdu, was undiscovered by the west until the 1970s. “It is beautiful countryside, so scenic, with waterfalls, lakes and wonderful traditional villages,” said a spokeswoman for the China specialist company. Two nights are spent in the valley before moving on to the area around Huanglong, where there are visits to temples. “We recommend this for second or third time visitors to China,” said the spokeswoman. Visitors are encouraged to combine the tour with a Yangtse cruise. Land-only tours start at £392; three-star accommodation and meals included.

For further information at http://english.51766.com

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